Here at Time Journal we are extremely pleased to announce the arrival of another weekly watch review, this time in the presence of an absolute legend – the Patek Philippe Ref 5146R Annual Calendar in rose gold. The watch is a clear example of the haute horology Patek Philippe are known for, and in the presence of this watch, you can understand the Patek Philippe saying; “You never actually own a Patek Philippe. You merely look after it for the next generation”. The timepiece features an annual calendar function, as well as a moonphase display function, as well as seconds, minutes and hours display. The watch also features a small power reserve indicator at the 12 o’clock position. As well as the watch featuring an incredible self-winding manual movement, it’s fair to say that the watch is simply stunning and would look good on any wrist on any occasion.
In 1996, Patek Philippe was the very first watch manufacture to release an annual calendar wristwatch, with the timepiece Ref 5035. This example, Ref 5146R Annual Calendar, was officially released in 2005, and available in either 18K white gold, 18K yellow gold and 18K rose gold. The watch has an undoubtedly classic feel to it, and features a date and month display wheels at the 9 and 3 o’clock positions. To complete the annual calendar, the date display aperture is located at the 6 o’clock position. Overall, this gives an easy and legible annual calendar display, which is very welcomed considering some annual calendar timepieces are severely hindered by ‘messy’ illegible annual calendar display. The annual calendar displays are set via four pushers on the sides of the watch case.
The Patek Philippe Ref 5146R Annual Calendar also features a moonphase complication, a complication that epitomizes the idea of haute horology and is often described as the least practical yet most romantic of all the horology complications. The power reserve indicator is located at 12 o’clock and is an indicator of roughly 45 hours power reserve.
The example is powered by a self-winding manual Calibre 324 S IRM QA LU movement and is in charge of optimizing the annual calendar, date aperture display, with a day and month subdials, moonphase complication and power reserve indicator. The movement ticks at 28,800 VpH (4Hz) and includes a total of 355 overall parts, with 36 jewels and 11 bridges. The movement’s finishing is truly impeccable, with beveled and polished edges, a 18K gold geometry rotor and perfectly polished screws, and finally finished with the Côtes De Genève seal of approval.
What is so fascinating about this watch is the multilevel gold bezel making this watch appear a lot smaller than it actually is. The watch is 39mm in diameter, with this particular example in 18K rose gold. The timepiece is finished exquisitely, and features subtle touches of genius which make you really feel as if you are part of an elite group. The gold hands are coated with luminescent material, in order to ensure optimum legibility, and the gold applied hour markers and numerals have been hand polished to the highest of quality.
One of my favourite things about this watch is the truly spectacular cream/ivory dial. For me, the combination of the 18K rose gold with the cream dial speaks volumes on the design, and as I said at the beginning, looks great on the wrist. The combination gives the feel of a classic watch, sporting a watch like Patek Philippe you have to expect a combination of two mantras – roots imbedded in tradition, whilst also providing state of the art research and development to bring the latest innovations from the world of haute horology.
This example is completed with a full 18K rose gold ‘drop links’ bracelet, sapphire crystal and sapphire crystal caseback (to view that stunning movement) and is water resistant t0 30m. On the wrist, the watch is very lightweight, and I even at a few stages forgot I had the timepiece on. For me, the watch works in all occasions, but I wouldn’t be offended if people commented it was more a dressier watch. I personally think it has all the appeal of the Rolex Day-Date, whilst being a lot smarter and advanced. The watch has a retail price tag of $63,700, but I guess that’s the price of a highly advanced precise timepiece in rose gold, and certainly a price to enter the exclusive Patek Philippe members club.
Images by Time Journal